Not Just Retinol: A Simple Guide to Retinoids for Better Skin Results
Retinol isn’t the only retinoid worth knowing. This beginner-friendly guide breaks down the full spectrum -- from OTC to Rx -- to help you find what works for your skin.
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If you’re at all interested in skincare, then chances are you’ve probably heard of retinol. It’s one of the most recognizable ingredients on the market, and is practically synonymous with “anti-aging.” But did you know that retinol is actually just one type of retinoid? And that there are other types of retinoids, each derived from Vitamin A?
Although each form offers similar benefits, such as smoothing fine lines, clearing breakouts, and improving skin texture, they differ in how quickly and effectively they deliver those results. Understanding these differences can help you choose the right type of retinoid for your skin’s needs, tolerance, and goals.
What are Retinoids?
First, what are retinoids? Retinoids are a family of chemical compounds derived from Vitamin A. They’re some of the most studied and well-proven ingredients in skincare, known for their ability to improve everything from acne and dark spots, to fine lines and rough texture.
Although each type of retinoid is different, what they share is a common ability to speed up cell turnover, essentially helping your skin shed dead skin cells, and quickly generate fresher, newer skin cells underneath. This makes retinoids effective at a variety of skincare tasks – but not every retinoid is created equal.
What Differentiates the Retinoid Types?
All retinoids are derived from Vitamin A and deliver similar benefits – from smoothing skin texture to reducing breakouts and signs of aging. What sets each type apart is its proximity to retinoic acid, which is the active ingredient that your skin actually uses.
As such, retinoids exist on a scale: from the most gentle to the most potent, which depends on how close it is to converting completely into retinoic acid once absorbed by your skin.
Retinoids such as retinyl esters sit furthest away from becoming an acid and must undergo multiple “conversion steps” before becoming effective, which makes them gentler but slower to deliver results. Conversely, prescription-strength tretinoin is retinoic acid, requiring no conversion at all and therefore works quickly, but can also cause significant irritation if your skin isn’t adequately prepared.
This sliding scale of potency means not every retinoid is right for everyone. While it might be tempting to jump straight to the strongest option, starting with a gentler form like retinol can provide meaningful results with far less risk of irritation.
What are the Different Types of Retinoids?
Now that we have established the retinoid spectrum – from the gentlest forms that work gradually over time, to the strongest forms that act immediately on the skin – here is a breakdown of the most common types organized from weakest to strongest:
Retinyl Esters
This is the most mild and least irritating of the Vitamin A family. This gentle retinoid is slower to show results, but is ideal for those with sensitive skin. Truth be told, I have not personally used any popular skincare products utilizing retinyl esters, as this ingredient is extremely mild so most brands don’t appear to leverage it — I would consider it “Level 0” as far as retinoids go.
Some experts suggest these retinoids show close to zero results and are nearly indistinguishable from that of a placebo — most brands will leverage retinol instead.
Retinol
This is the most widely used retinoid available over-the-counter, and is considered by dermatologists to be suitable even for skincare beginners. (What I would call "Level 1.”) Its popularity is primarily driven by how palatable this ingredient can be for most skin types, while still delivering relatively quick results.
Not only that, but some brands like CeraVe have even developed methods for making retinol more mild without reverting to a weaker form like retinyl ester — CeraVe’s beloved Skin Renewing Retinol Serum actually uses an "Encapsulated Retinol" formula that releases this powerful ingredient more gradually in order to reduce skin irritation.
Other popular products leveraging retinol include:
- Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Face Serum Capsules
- Paula's Choice RESIST Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum
Retinaldehyde (aka Retinal)
This retinoid is a step up in strength from retinol, and is what I consider to be “Level 2” if you’re already utilizing retinol (with an ‘O.’) Retinal is often recommended after you’ve already built up a tolerance to retinol, due to its potency and potential for skin irritation. This is because in terms of proximity to retinoic acid, retinal is comparatively closer to converting into this acid when interacting with your skin, meaning it will tend to have more immediate effects.
From my perspective: if retinol is for beginners, then retinal is for intermediates — similar skin-smoothing results, in a shorter time frame, but higher risk of irritation. One product utilizing retinal that I have personally been testing is the Beauty of Joseon Eye Revive Serum with Retinal. Although I am still testing it out for ultimate efficacy, the benefit of utilizing this cream with the inclusion of retinal is the potentially faster brightening results of retinal to relieve dark circles and minimize under-eye wrinkles.
Retinoic Acid (eg. Tretinoin or ‘Tret’)
Tretinoin is a hot ingredient in skincare right now, and is a prescription-strength ingredient that works directly on the skin. I would consider this to be “Level 3,” and not an ingredient to mess around with — in fact, you won’t be able to get this without a prescription from your dermatologist, although some startups like Hims and Curology are now offering same-day consultations to facilitate tret subscriptions.
That’s because tretinoin effectively is retinoic acid – no conversion needed, and can react directly with your skin. As such it can pose substantial risks when used inappropriately. Dermatologists typically prescribe this retinoid to treat significant skincare concerns like the reduction of visible scars or hyperpigmentation.
Commercially available tret prescriptions include:
- Curology Custom Formula: Tretinoin formulated with skin-soothing ingredients like niacinamide to minimize visible irritation
- Hims Rx Skin Custom Anti-Aging Cream: Offered in various strengths and formulations to including tret
Final Thoughts
Retinoids can feel overwhelming at first, but the core takeaway is simple: every type offers similar benefits — it’s just a matter of how fast and how strong you want them to be. Whether you're easing in with retinol or exploring prescription options like tretinoin, there's something that can work for you.
Start slow, stay consistent, and give your skin time to adjust. With the right approach, a retinoid can be one of the most rewarding additions to your skincare routine.
Always consult a dermatologist — especially before starting stronger formulations like tretinoin. These ingredients can be highly effective, but they can also irritate your skin if not introduced properly. A professional can help tailor the approach to your skin’s unique needs.